We all know the line: “Mogambo khush hua (Mogambo is happy).” But have you ever wondered who made Mogambo look that powerful? That iconic gold-braided, high-collared, larger-than-life costume actor Amrish Puri wore in the 1987 cult classic Mr India didn’t just happen. Also read | Veteran designer James Ferreira says old Bollywood stars never asked for free outfits: ‘People were so well-mannered’
It was meticulously stitched into cinematic history by Madhav Agasti, a master tailor who has dressed Bollywood’s most iconic villains and heroes for over five decades. Here is the fascinating story of how a small-town apprentice from Nagpur built a legacy that travelled from the vibrant streets of Dadar to the red carpets of Cannes and Wimbledon.
From Nagpur to Mr India
Madhav Agasti started in 1969 with a few hundred rupees and a tape measure. He left Nagpur and travelled across India to learn everything — the structured cutting of Aligarh, the regal tailoring of Lucknow, and the discipline of Madras (now Chennai). By 1975, he opened his first shop in Dadar, Mumbai — Madhav’s Men’s Modes.
His maiden film project, Aapne Parai, opened the doors to Hindi cinema. But it was his work on 1987 blockbuster Mr India — specifically the gold-braided, high-collared costume for Amrish Puri’s Mogambo — that cemented his status as the film industry’s premier couturier for antagonists and leading men alike. He’s since designed for hundreds of films, including Ram Teri Ganga Maili (1985), Shahenshah (1988) and Tezaab (1988).
But for him, there was no single ‘I’ve made it’ moment. “I don’t think there was one particular garment where I suddenly felt, ‘I’ve arrived,'” he told HT Lifestyle, adding, “For me, it was a gradual journey. When you begin as a tailor, you are constantly learning — about fabrics, proportions, construction, and most importantly, about people.”
Discussing why a film costume matters so much, he shared, “What I have always found fascinating about cinema is that clothing has the ability to create a character before the actor even speaks. For me, the most rewarding part has been seeing the craftsmanship we do in the atelier become part of a character, a story, and eventually something that audiences remember for decades.”
He didn’t just dress villains
That same sartorial authority caught the eye of people far beyond Bollywood. His client list includes industrialists, global icons, and even the former President of India, Ram Nath Kovind.
Speaking about how men’s fashion has changed, he said, “In the 70s, tailoring was much more personal. Men had fewer clothes, but they invested more time in having them made properly. Today, men have access to much more fashion, international influences, and faster trends. But one thing has not changed: a good fit is timeless.”
The new chapter
In 2012, Madhav Agasti’s Men’s Modes rebranded to MMM. Leading the evolution is his daughter-in-law, Avani Agasti, director of the house. Her mission? Take a 50-year legacy further without losing its soul.
“Stepping into a 50-year-old legacy is both a privilege and a responsibility. The biggest challenge was finding that delicate balance between preserving what makes the house special and evolving it for the future. It has never been about changing the Agasti identity; it has been about taking something that has stood the test of time and giving it a new chapter,” Avani told HT Lifestyle.
Their philosophy is pure quiet luxury, she highlighted: “We don’t believe that luxury always needs to announce itself. It is in the cut, the construction, the fabric, the finishing — and most importantly, in how the man feels wearing it. Our philosophy has always been fit before flourish.”
And her biggest style tip? Stop thinking bespoke = skin-tight. “The biggest misconception is that bespoke means a garment should be extremely fitted or tight,” she explained. “True bespoke is much more nuanced. It is about understanding your proportions, your posture, your lifestyle, and even the way you move. The best-fitting garment is one you don’t constantly think about wearing,” Avani said.
Her advice for every man building a wardrobe? “A beautifully made garment that fits you perfectly will always look more powerful than a wardrobe full of clothes that don’t.”
