As I walked through the doors of Scarlet, the first thing that struck my mind was the buzz that filled the space. It is a happy buzz, the kind that immediately calls upon you to let loose and settle in for a good time.
The smooth curves on the wood-panelled floor guided the movement as I was led to a corner table from where the entire restaurant opened up to my view. The 2,200 square feet space gave a sense of great expansiveness, even though it was a packed house.
Situated on the third floor of the Mani Square Mall in Kolkata, this is the third outlet of the cafe founded by Mannvi Saini. The young founder comes from a family that is well known in the city’s hotel scene, and brought the right mix of fresh ideas and old wisdom to make the place work.
A blend of artisanal and boho vibes
As I looked through the menu, which offered a great variety of continental choices that are infused with local flavours, the artisanal tree with red plumage that served as the centrepiece of the cafe drew my attention.
The seating area was designed organically around it, with benches, booths, and comfortable chairs made available for the patrons. The natural light that filtered through the glass walls was accentuated by the warm lights hanging from the ceilings within ovoid cages of rattan weaves.
Curves seem to be a recurring pattern, as the artisanal planters along the walls complemented the cages from which the lights hung. Surrounded by greenery, it felt that the Mediterranean tones and tropical modernism that the cafe claimed to be inspired by were well brought out.
Textured stone surface of the tables highlighted the understated luxury of the place, as did the open bakery that engaged the guests. However, it was definitely the people all over who made the place a welcoming spot to hang out.
Serving the Kolkata continental on a plate
As the food began to quickly arrive, it was the aroma that first drew me in. The floor staff was helping every table with a warm passion, from recommending the best dishes to helping click a group photo at the booth. They helped me with picking the right dishes, and I was soon in my happy place.
Every dish that was presented on the table was wonderfully balanced and not overdone in the slightest. The intensity of the sriracha mushroom toast was offset by the rich and creamy truffle mushroom fettuccine. But it was the freshness of the pesto and burrata pizza that stayed with me till the next day.
The entrees paired wonderfully with the spicy mango picante, a summer special drink at the cafe that is just what is needed to beat the summer heat. The drink does have jalapenos, so those who prefer it mild, fair warning.
The signature grilled fish with lemon caper butter sauce is where Scarlet showed off its connection with the city’s roots; the perfectly cooked Kolkata bhetki is a testament to the talent of the kitchen staff. And the iced tiramisu latte and the matilda cake showed that the desserts are not to be missed at all. When I walked out the doors, the buzz that welcomed me into the establishment stayed. And that is the best feeling of all.
Scarlet: 3rd floor, Mani Square, EM Bypass. Cafe Timing from 11am to 11pm. Price: ₹1,200 for two.
